A Visit To Tetuan Forty Years Ago.

rises a bold outline of Spanish hills , and at their bottom we discern the Avlnte houses of Algesiras peeping out from amid the green trees ; and Ave look on vineyards extending all along towards the left , unto Cabrita Point ; the gleaming foliage of the vines , and the darker background of the hills , commingling together and forming into shades as countless as beautiful . To our " right front" lies the IOAV Spanish shore , Avith the " Orange Grove " fresh and bright , and above it outstands conspicuously St . Roque , on

its fine portion of higher table-land . Above St . Roque , though at a great distance , Ave see the glittering heights of Castellar , with Ronda Hills just peeping into view , and only just , in the dim background of all . Behind us stands bold out old Gib . itself , with its marked profile , its many-coloured houses , its greenest foliage , its frowning batteries , and Avith countless crafts of all nations and rigs lying cradled at its sea-beat base . To our left lies the open channel of the Straits ; on its other side are staring Ceuta ' s Avails ;

above Ceuta , bleak and rugged Ape ' s Hill ; Avhile behind , far aAvay , "hoary Atlas " toAvers in stateliest majesty over all . NOAV all this , Avith the deep blue sky and the deep blue sea , the elastic atmosphere —always supposing that the " Levant " has ceased to bloAV—makes up a scene of poAver and fascination which I must entreat my untravelled readers to picture out for themselves .

Sure I am , however , that if any AVIIO UOAV peruse these pages have ever seen classic Calpe ' s face , or there have Avilecl aAvay some of life ' s fresher hours , they will assent to my remarks , if only they do not complain that my lag-Ring words . and feeble illustrations fail in doing justice to the seniie . RnAVi-ver , wo nr ; sY n . irioii-uiy-- ; It-n ; : !¦ this time AA' 6 are supposed to be uuder Aveigh . So , Sumonos nos con Lie . A / coriLugly a short voyage , Avhile a merry one , brought us off Tetuan , or rather Tetium ' s shore , for Tetuan itself is above five miles from the beach ; and from the distance its white and

picturesque houses contrast conspicuously Avith the green and leafy garden-land in Avhich it lies { as it Avere ) embedded . We anchored off the little Moorish fort , principally composed of wood , ancl were speedily boarded by a boat of stately and turbaned Moors , Aviiose screams rang in our ears for many a long clay after . Being admitted forthwith to " pratique" ( as the . term is ) , Ave prepared to land ; ancl at the appointed time , amid the flashes of the Moorish

cannon from the fort , and the roaring echoes of the Medea ' s huge 84-pounders , our party , Avhich made up three boats , reached the marshy shore . But Avhen Ave landed , Ave found that Ave should have need of our patience , as the promised horses of the Pasha had not yet arrived to carry our numerous train ; and so , to save ourselves from the burning sun , Ave took possession " en masse " of the little Moorish guard-room Avhich abuts upon the landing-placeand meekly aAvaited their arrival . BeforehoAveverI proceed on our

, , , journey ( as the Pasha's horses are not yet come ) , one word' or so as to our party—a right pleasant one , believe me , Avas it—though composed of many , ancl apparently com Aiding , elements . The sedate ancl the merry—the dignified "authority" and the insouciant subaltern—soldiers and sailors , " great guns ancl small "—all these Avere here mixed together , with keen spirits and gladsome hearts , bent at any rate'upon one day ' s enjoyment , and one day ' s release from the trammels of duty and the responsibilities of

commanct . . What a joyous assembly we Avere , and IIOAV did our laughter make the old Moors stare , ancl horrify the Moslems' staid notions of manly demeanour , as Avithin that little Avhite-Avashed guard-room Ave sat in heterogeneous circle , all order in abeyance , and all etiquette forgot ; ancl drank from a shalloAV Tetuan clay dish , in our turn , Aveak brandy and water ( very weak it Avas ) , Avhich was supplied to us by a female Good Samaritan ; by Avay of preparation for the scorching of our inland journeyand the burning at

, sun 99 in the shade . Alas ! as to-day , Avhen colder thoughts ancl calmer associations prevail , I look back upon that laughing company , ancl think of those vanished hours , the reflections Avhich the consciousness of the present brings to the floating memories of the past are in sober truth both touching and sad . Of that merry circle IIOAV many bnks are missing , or rather , alas ! hoAV feAV , if any , even remain except the writer , " l ' orty years make a sad hole in our years ! Forty years ago positively it is since Ave