Buttermere Lake.

Rising and leaping , Sinking and creeping , Swelling and flinging , Showering and springing , Eddying and whisking , Spouting and frisking .

Turning and twisting . Around and around , Collecting , disjecting , With endless rebound . Smiting and fighting , A sight to delight in . Confounding , astounding , Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound .

And so never ending , but always descending , Sounds and motions for ever and ever are blending , All at once and all o ' er , with a mighty uproar , And in this way the water comes down at Lodore . The carriages stop for the tourist to walk up to the fall . The little roadside inn at which the Prince of Wales stayed all night in 1857 is still thereand

, by its side a grand new hotel has been built by Mr . Geo . Wilson , of Nunthorpe Grove , York , the owner of the fall . Winding , the road takes you round Grangef ell , ancl you are presently opposite Castle Crag , a conical hill covered with wood , except its craggy top , which seems erected by nature to defend the dale . It has no doubt been a place where the Romans kept a look-out , although the natural strength of the place needed no works to defend it . Tradition

says it was also a place of offence ancl defence against the moss-troopers , to prevent them making a short cut over the Stake Pass into Westmorland and Lancashire to surprise and plunder the wealthier districts . Passing Bowder Stone on the left ( which is also worth climbing 150 yards to see ) , you descend upon Rosthwaite , where there are two comfortable hostelries , the Scawfell Hotel ancl the Royal Oak Inn . Many a clergyman and many a rest-seeking

tourist sojourns in Borrowdale for a few weeks amidst the most charming and peaceful scenery . Lord John Russell said he had " never seen any place like Borrowdale . " Seatoller , once the residence of the late Abraham Fisher , Esq ., J . P ., a prince amongst dalesmen ( the last of his family and name in the dale ) , is now let for lodgings to summer tourists . Leaving Seatoller you begin the ascent of Borrowdale Hawse . A mountain gill runs clown on the left , where

leaving the road for twenty yards you have a small waterfall into a basin , which would be , as Southey said , the perfection of a cold bath . None but ladies are allowed to remain in the carriages for the next two or three miles , and only those unused to climbing . As you reach the summit , the magnificent Honister Crag comes in view on the left , while Y ^ v Crag towers up on the right . This is truly the most romantic pass in this country . On both

sides the mountains have been pierced with close head quarries , and the finest green slate in the kingdom is produced . It took the first prize in the great Exhibition in London in 1862 . The descent is not less difficult for the carriages than the ascent , after which you run along through Gatesgarfch , and presently come in sight of the beautiful Lake of Buttermere , lying like a bird ' s nest , surrounded by hills and woods of nature ' s planting .

One of the earliest writers on Buttermere was Josh . Budworth , Esq ., F . S . A . He published "A Fortnight ' s Ramble to the Lakes , " in 1792 . He gave a gossiping account , commencing at Margate and finishing at Levens , near Kendal . It was he who first drew attention to Mary of Buttermere , then a girl of fifteen years . " Her hair was thick ancl long , of a dark brown , and though unadorned with ringlets , did not seem to want them . Her face was a line oval , with full eyes and lips red as Vermillion . Her cheeks had more of